Exploring Lisbon, Portugal
Lisbon is often likened to the San Francisco of Europe – a coastal city built atop seven hills, where the cable cars buzz by along their tracks and a golden suspension bridge spans the waterfront. Lisbon carries a similar welcoming West Coast charm. Here past and present collide in a municipality where tiled sidewalks lead past grandoise castles and gothic monasteries to the eclectic clubs and renowned restaurants that constitute the cultural heartbeat of the city.
I first visited Lisbon six years ago with my family on the back of my summer studying in Italy. There was a horrible heatwave across Europe that summer. But even still the breeze off the Tagus at Belém was cool, and the sidewalk cafés the perfect place to sip sangria.
Returning this year was rather unexpected. Travel certainly wasn’t in the itinerary but as I had to leave Ireland before I could apply for my new visa, it made sense to go and stay with my parents for a few months as they had recently relocated to Portugal. We rented a flat in the Santana district for a few weeks and were able to admire the city from afar. And even if travel may not be on the cards at the moment, I’m already daydreaming of how lively Lisbon will be when we can visit again. If you’re reading this, you probably are too.
With a youthful and vibrant culture, Lisbon flourishes in its own revived Age of Discovery. Here are some of the best things to see and do next time you visit Lisbon.
Praça do Comércio || Baixa
Perhaps the most iconic Lisbon landmark is the Praça do Comercio – a monumental plaza that sits on the city’s waterfront. The square once housed the Royal Ribeira Palace until it was destroyed during the great 1755 earthquake. The plaza was later remodeled as a symbolic welcome to Lisbon from those traveling to trade from foreign lands. Grand yellow Pombaline buildings surround the square and the colossal Rua Augusta arch leads to Baixa. To the south, the plaza leads down to the Tagus estuary.
Elevador de Santa Justa || Baixa-Chiado
The Elevador de Santa Justa is a marvel of wrought-iron that shuttles visitors up the 45 meters from Baixa to the Largo do Carmo. Raul Mesnier de Ponsard – an architectural student of Gustave Eiffel – designed the structure. Although the lines can often be quite long for a trip to the top, the elevator features a viewing platform with panoramic views over the city.
Tram 28 and Sé Cathedral || Alfama
Lisbon Cathedral – formally Santa Maria Maior but better known just as the Sé – is a Roman Catholic basilica that dates back to 1147. Having survived many earthquakes, it’s been restored over the years. Today visitors can wander through the Gothic cloisters and explore the relics housed in the treasury. The facade is a striking landmark halfway up the Alfama hillside. And just out front, the iconic yellow Tram 28 rattles by on its scenic journey. This tramline passes through the historic and picturesque narrow streets of some of Lisbon’s oldest neighborhoods.
Torre de Belém || Belém
The Torre de Belém (formally the Torre de São Vicente) is a 16th century limestone fortification sitting on the northern bank of the Tagus river, where famous explorers like Henry the Navigator and Vasco da Gama once departed on their journeys during the Portuguese Age of Exploration. Built in the Manueline style with an influence of Moorish architecture, locals used the tower originally for defense and later as a lighthouse and customs house.
Fado Performance || Alfama
The only thing that matters is to feel the fado. The fado is not meant to be sung – it simply happens. You feel it, you don’t understand it and you don’t explain it. – Amália Rodrigues
Fado originated in Lisbon sometime in the early nineteenth century. It is a form of Portuguese singing noted for being particularly melancholic, and it can be heard in cafés and restaurants around the city. It is often related to the Portuguese word saudade – a deep emotional state of permanent longing and feeling of loss for something or someone.
Neighborhood of Alfama || Alfama
Alfama is Lisbon’s oldest district, sloping along the hillside from Castelo de São Jorge down to the Tagus riverfront. It’s a picturesque labyrinth of wandering alleys and side streets. There is something to be found around every turn, whether it’s a fado bar, fresh market, or tiled facade. For a great meal, I recommend Canto da Vila – I think we ate here at least three times on our first trip to Lisbon just because I fell in love with the saltimbocca chicken.
Shops of Chiado || Chiado
Chiado is another neighborhood in the heart of Lisbon. It is a commercial and cultural district notable for its shopping, churches, theaters, museums and culinary scene. It’s worth a wander alone for the picturesque shopfronts – like the one at Pequeno Jardim. Check out Café A Brasileira – a Belle Époque cafe that was once a favorite of Portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa. Grab a pastel de nata at Pastelaria Benard, then check out Livraria Bertrand – dating back to 1732, it is the world’s oldest operating bookshop.
Miradouro dos Portas do Sol || Alfama
Just past the cathedral up the Alfama hillside, you’ll find a terrace with an iconic panoramic vista over Lisbon. The Miradouro das Portas do Sol is a great spot to grab a coffee with a view.
LX Factory || Alcântara
Sitting under the highway overpass overlooking the 25 de Abril bridge, the LX Factory is an old industrial complex that’s been reimagined into a hub of art and culture. The old warehouses with walls painted in colorful murals now house concept stores, galleries, restaurants and cafes. Among the many unique retailers you’ll find here is Livraria Ler Devagar – a book store that moonlights as a record shop, a print studio, and a craft brewery. But it’s the stocked shelves that stretch from floor to ceiling that make it one of the most unique and picturesque bookshops in the world.
Castelo de São Jorge || Alfama
Perched atop Lisbon’s highest hillside between the Castelo and Alfama districts, the walls of the Castelo de São Jorge overlook the city. The fortress was first built in the fifth century by the Visigoths, later becoming a Portuguese stronghold and royal palace. Today visitors can explore its towers and museum.
Miradouro de Graça ||Graça
One of the best viewpoints in the city is in the hilltop neighborhood of Graça. You’ll find it nestled next to the eponymous Baroque church that dates back to 1271. The Miradouro da Graça is a terrace that offers a panoramic view over the orange rooftops of the city out to the Tagus estuary and the 25 de Abril bridge. Climb to the top of the hill or take the Tram 28 up – but I recommend making the trek in the evening as this is the best spot in Lisbon to watch the sunset. Grab a sangria at Graça do Vinho after.
Bairro Alto Nightlife || Bairro Alto
You’ll find some of the best nightlife in Europe tucked in the side streets of Lisbon’s Bairro Alto district. By day, the streets are lively with bustling shops and an exciting culinary scene. But by night crowds spill out of the bars that line each rua and the party takes to the street. Bar hop through the throngs along Rua da Atalaia, or head to an open-air rooftop bar like Park that offers panoramic city views with your drink.
Elevador da Bica || Bairro Alto
The rule of thumb to remember in Lisbon is that what comes down must come up. Luckily, the city’s cable cars make the hills a bit less daunting. The Elevador da Bica is a funicular tram that climbs the steep slope from the waterfront up to Bairro Alto.
Padrão dos Descobrimentos || Belém
Towering on the northern bank of the Tagus estuary just before the Torre de Belém is the Padrão dos Descobrimentos. This monumental tribute to the Portuguese Age of Discovery takes its shape from the prow of a caravel ship. The bow features Henry the Navigator looking out to sea. Sixteen more figures flank him on each side, depicting explorers like Vasco da Gama and Ferdinand Magellan to cartographers and monarchs.
Mosteiro dos Jerónimos || Belém
Located in Belém, the Mosteiro dos Geronimos is an old monastery built in the late Gothic Manueline style. Construction on the monastery began in 1501 and lasted for nearly a hundred years. Visitors can wander the ornate cathedral hall and arched cloisters. When the weather permits, market stalls and food trucks surround the Praça do Império gardens and fountains out front.
Feira da Ladra || Alfama
The Feira da Ladra is Lisbon’s answer to London’s Portobello. Known as the Thieves Market, this sprawling Alfama flea market is full of vendors bartering various treasures and bric-à-brac. What was once a nomadic marketplace dating as far back as the 12th century, this market set up at Campo de Santa Clara in 1903, just beyond the Igreja de São Vicente de Fora. Be ready to haggle – you can always snag a deal on vintage goods here every Tuesday through Saturday.
Pasteis de Belém || Belém
If there’s one thing you can’t leave Portugal without trying, it’s pastel de nata. This rich egg custard tart baked in a crisp pastry shell is a local delicacy. You’ll find these in every padaria across the city. But the best can be found at Pastéis de Belém, which has been serving them up since 1837. There’s usually a line down the street to get in but they are worth the wait. Top with a dusting of cinnamon and powdered sugar and bon appétit.
Convento do Carmo || Chiado
The Gothic ruins of the Convento do Carmo overlook the city from the top of the Chiado district. Th 1755 earthquake that shook Lisbon destroyed the convent, leaving the nave of the church an exposed frame of stone arches.
Parques de Sintra || Sintra
Finally, no trip to Lisbon would be complete without a day trip to Sintra. A short train ride to the hills north of the city, this UNESCO world heritage village is famed for its many castles. These include the prismatic Palácio Nacional de Pena, the medieval stone walls of the Castelo dos Mouros, the winding wells and gothic grounds of the Quinta da Regaleira, and more.
Planning on visiting Portugal once we can travel again? Don’t miss the Algarve coast – check out my guide to Lagos!
xx, J